Last Wednesday I met up with all of the kids from USC at an Indian restaurant. It gave me the opportunity to better acquaint myself with my fellow Trojans here in Edinburgh. Dinner was incredible; I especially enjoyed learning that they dont call it dessert here, they call it 'pudding.' So 'pudding' can really refer to ice cream, cake, pie, etc. After dinner we all went to see the musical, The Sound of Music. It was..well, it was alright. I assumed going into the musical that I had never seen the movie before, but I suppose that is wrong, seeing as I recognized practically every song and knew how it was going to end. After the play we all ventured over to a pub next door. I was quite depressed to sit at a table and not be able to drink, meanwhile everyone nursed a healthy pint of cider or beer.
Last Thursday night was quite exciting as well. I went on my first pub crawl! It was the literary society's pub crawl (a society is also like a club, but here in Edinburgh it appears that every club has been created for the mere purpose of bringing together like-minded individuals in order to drink alcohol. It's really quite fantastic), so i met a lot of English majors or literature-enthusiasts. I walked over with my friends Bri and Olenka. At the door we were given name tags that were inscribed with the names of a fictional character. The whole point was to meet your 'author.' My character was a certain Mr. Knightly from Jane Austen's 'Northanger Abbey,' if my memory doesn't fail me. Bri and Olenka's characters were also from the same novel, so we set out in search of Jane Austen (whom we learned was actually a guy). Oh, this all took place at a pub called Frankensteins. I decided to just be adventurous, so with lemonade in hand (note: lemonades in the UK are not like the one's back home. They're like Sprite, really) I wandered through the congregated people and met some Scottish and English individuals. I also met Jane Austen, who like I said was a boy named Chris. I also met several of his friends.
And then we set off in a mob of people for the next pub in the pub crawl--Dropkick Murphy's I think it was called. And again, I met more people. And then we went to Bannerman's. And then, just as Olenka and Bri were about to walk home, a group of English and Scottish guys who were in the Lit Society invited me to go to a club with them. On a whim I agreed to go with them, which was quite unlike me. Minutes later I found myself sitting at a rather posh booth in a club that was akin to what I can only assume is a vampire's haunt. The room with the booths was lined with stones (like a castle); the lights were red, and the booths were black..it was all very gothic and romantic. I was surrounded at the booth by the guys, who kept throwing back more and more alcohol. I was amazed at their gusto and capability to remain in control even whilst tossing shot back with more beer.
And then, they wanted to dance. There were at least five guys on the dance floor dancing with me. I couldn't stop laughing. The music was mostly English pop...like Kinks, Beatles, T. Rex, Pulp, Blur, etc. And the guys are very indie, some of them with shag haircuts, so if I squinted my eyes it almost felt like I was dancing at a club in the 60s. Some rather interesting things occurred on the dance floor, but nothing that is suitable to relate via a web blog.
Friday I went on a bus tour of the city. It was awesome.
On Saturday I went up to St Andrews with Olenka and our other friends, Jessie, Jackie, Nic and Alayna. For those of you who don't know, St Andrews is the home of golf--that's where it was founded and that's where you can play golf on the oldest course in the world. The town/city is also home to the oldest university in Scotland (founded in the 1400s!!). I think either Prince William or Prince Harry went to university there. By bus it took about an hour to an hour and a half to achieve the city, and the ride up was quite beautiful, especially because we could see the ocean at certain points of the journey!
First, we saw the remains of the cathedral and a giant cemetery. Then we wandered down a ways and found a walkway that led directly to the ocean. We wandered along a quay for a whiles, but at a certain point my moods dropped, due to the rain, and the wind blowing the seaspray directly into my face. The view was rather spectacular, though. The winds were churning the waves into a tumultuous monster that constantly crashed upon the distant seashore. And the sands in the distance that were touched by the waves glimmered feebly--there was no sunshine. We then wandered up to see the golf course, and after a brief respite at a restaurant that reminded me too much of America, we walked through one of the college's of the university and found ourselves at the ruins of the ancient castle. Much of the walls are missing, and the main ceiling is practically gone. Olenka and I wandered off from the others for a bit and had some moments where we bemoaned how shit the weather was. Rain is one thing; wind another. But rain and wind together? Shit. Absolute shit and bollocks. It was one of the coldest days yet (or so it seemed).
Here is a picture of the cemetery:

This is the quay that I walked down:

Here is the ocean from my vantage point:


I was able to climb up some stairs and get to the second story of the once-castle. From this vantage point I could see a bit of the coast, but the fogs and mists obscured my eyes from looking out any great distance. All of a sudden I realized that I was alone up there, that though I could hear the sound of my friends voices and laughter carried upon the wind, I was for all sakes and purposes very much alone up there. The wind beat sea spray relentlessly into my face, but I suddenly did not mind. My breath caught in my chest and I suddenly felt--free. That moment was bittersweet--so beautiful, yet so poignantly sad because I knew that the chances of me ever returning to this same spot were slim to none. And I knew that the moment would end so soon--I knew that at any moment my friends would call up, wondering where I was, beseeching me to return to the gift shop. And just like that, the moment would be gone. So i stood there, hands pressed into my coat pockets and eyes half-closed against the wind, and I felt very much alive. It was one of those moments that felt almost as if I was reliving a memory that I had simply forgot I possessed. It was a waking dream.
Here is the castle remains that I stood upon:

The next day, this being last Sunday, I attempted to do some much-needed reading for my classes (I read 'Twelfth Night,' several short stories by Aphra Behn (she's one of the first female writers to ever earn a living via her writing!), and George Eliot's novel, 'Silas Marner.') I also wandered over to the National Gallery with a large gaggle of people in order to see some art and feel cultured and what-not. Although it was a rather small museum, it still housed some well-known masterpieces. There were a few Da Vincis (one of my all-time favies), a few Van Goghs, a handful of Rembrandt's, some Stubb's, and I think even a Monet and many more by Titian. They had organized the museum via nationality--one wing was dedicated to Dutch painters; another room had impressionists--mostly French and Dutch--then there were the religious-crappy ones by the Dutch and British, etc. What I really liked about the museum was that the guards all wore plaid/tartan pants.
Yesterday was Burn's Day/Night. Robert Burns is one of the best-known Scottish writers, and he is perhaps one of the most-beloved by the Scottish people. Every January 25th the Scotch celebrate the bard/poet by essentially having a dinner of haggis, neeps and tatties--oh, and wearing kilts, playing bagpipes, and getting pissed drunk. Since I had joined the Lit Society, I decided to attend their Burn's Night Dinner at the Argyle Bar. I walked over to the pub with Kim, a fellow USC student and English major. We mixed and mingled, but I did not approach any of the guys I had met the previous Thursday at the pub crawl. Dinner was quite an interesting affair. We were alerted that dinner was to begin when one of the guys who was donned in a kilt began to play his bagpipes. There was an opening speech, then a soup of potatoes, and then Chris, the guy who I met at the pub crawl, 'addressed the haggis.' Yes. The chef brought out some haggis, and I think Chris read some poetry by Robert Burns over the haggis. And then he stabbed said haggis with a knife, and cut it up. I noticed that he laid his Scottish accent on a bit thicker than normal. He spoke more gutturally than normal. Now, haggis can be prepared in multiple ways, but essentially its a sheeps heart, liver, lungs, and brain all cooked inside the intestines. Yum? Ya, fuck no. I've tasted it a couple of times and I really dislike it.
Dinner consisted of haggis (I got the vegetarian haggis), neeps, and tatties. Neeps are turnips (they look like yellow mashed potatoes) and tatties is basically mashed potatoes. And then this guy Calum, who I also met at the pub crawl, drunkenly (I cant quite determine how intoxicated he was) read another Burn's poem. Calum too made his already Scottish accent a bit thicker than normal. After dinner a guy addressed the lassies, and then a girl addressed the laddies. They were both only English (how boring), but basically their speeches are supposed to berate and mock the opposite sexes, but praise them nonetheless despite their shortcomings.
After dinner I walked back to campus and caught the end of the Ceilidh--its a sort of folk dance to bag pipes and more folksie music.
Today I went to classes; shopped a bit too much; and later went to a pub with my friend Chris (not the Scottish one) who also goes to USC. All in all, the past few days have been a whirlwind. I don't even really remember clearly what I did last Friday. I'm slowly feeling more at home in Edinburgh; I really don't want to leave and return to the states. I'm not homesick, although I do miss people (namely, my dachshund) from home. In the back of my head I keep considering graduate school here...
There are certain things I miss from the states...like actual indoor heating, toilet seat covers, free-refills on sodas, and one faucet at the sink that combines both hot and cold water. But really apart from that, I can't think of anything that I miss (ok, Mexican food. And orange juice. And fruits. And popcorn. But seriously I'm done). Otherwise, I love this place; I'm slowly growing acclimated to the fact that they drive on the opposite side of the street, and the class-work is becoming familiar and comfortable. I also know my way around the general vicinity of my flat and the university. That in and of itself is incredibly comforting. I also have friends, and I don't really feel lonely, not like I did the first couple of days. And I'm starting to get to know the kids in my classes, which is pleasant.
It's strange how something so unfamiliar can slowly become the most comforting thing ever.


